ARNAVUTKÖY: AN INSPIRING VILLAGE BY THE BOSPHORUS

Arnavutköy, an enchanting village nestled by the Bosphorus, was vividly described by the renowned Turkish traveler, Evliya Çelebi. He depicted it as a place where "the bread and biscuits are white, Jews indulge in pleasure and music, Greeks are of Northern Black Sea origin, and the Muslim community is relatively small." This formerly cosmopolitan Ottoman village derived its name from the Albanians who settled here after the Balkans' conquest in the 15th century. It was also known as Mihail's village, in honor of the Orthodox church devoted to Archangel Michael.

As time went on, the neighborhood underwent changes, and its inhabitants scattered, with the once-familiar sound of Greek conversations from window to window fading. Yet, easily accessible by ferry, the area has admirably clung to its essence as a picturesque Bosphorus village and preserved its wooden Art Nouveau architectural heritage. Despite the tremendous challenges of urban transformation that have swept across Istanbul, Arnavutköy has managed to retain its unique identity as a cherished Bosphorus village. That’s why it comes as no surprise that the number of Arnavutköy lovers in Istanbul continues to grow. The locals take immense pride in the strong sense of belonging that this neighborhood instills in them.

A testament to this profound sense of belonging and solidarity was the successful prevention of constructing a proposed third bridge in the area. This rightful struggle led to the establishment of the Boğaziçi Arnavutköylüler Derneği (Bosphorus Arnavutköy Residents Association), an active organization that stands as a beautiful legacy. Thanks to their efforts, the neighborhood gained a fire station and has been hosting the Traditional Arnavutköy Festival almost incessantly for nearly two decades. The Arnavutköy t-shirt, designed collaboratively by the painter Uğural Gafuroğlu and the designer Ayşe Çelem for the Traditional Arnavutköy Festival, once again embodies the love Istanbulites have for Arnavutköy.

Arnavutköy: An art and design route

Do you remember the vibrant music clubs of the 90s in Arnavutköy, like Eylül, Naima, Kuzgun, and Pupa, where live jazz and reggae performances lit up the nights? Despite occasional interruptions, music and art have always flourished here in Arnavutköy. One of the recent developments is the growing number of design workshops and art spaces in the area.

The Arnavutköy Art and Design Points map, a project initiated by designer Ayşe Çelem and Ayşe Özgüneş in collaboration with Boğaziçi Arnavutköylüler Derneği, was an idea that resonated with everyone. Ayşe Çelem's illustrative talents brought this map to life, highlighting the creative hubs where designers and artists converge in the neighborhood in August 2018.

Nonetheless, one can still dream of a more livable city here! You will encounter urban spaces that are often absent in large metropolises: expansive parks, public art adorning public spaces, free events, wall murals preserving the Mexican art tradition, lively mass protests, vibrant festivals, farmer's markets, street parties, and pedestrian-friendly streets regularly free from traffic... Doesn't this feel like a slice of paradise?

Do you remember the vibrant music clubs of the 90s in Arnavutköy, like Eylül, Naima, Kuzgun, and Pupa, where live jazz and reggae performances lit up the nights? Despite occasional interruptions, music and art have always flourished here in Arnavutköy.

Designer Ayşe Çelem's cozy spot, named XUNTA, which translates to "together" in Spanish, brings her three passions under one roof: t-shirts, coffee, and wine. By day, XUNTA Cafe Bar Design operates as a delightful cafe, inviting visitors to savor special coffee blends and explore Çelem's designs available for purchase. Chances are, you already love her creations, even if you weren't aware of their origin. Her designs might have graced the cover of a book in your library, adorned the print of a cherished t-shirt in your wardrobe, or even embellished the label of a bottle of wine in your kitchen cupboard. Among her designs, the most popular character is the intriguing Psycho Panda, born from an unexpected twist of fate. Originally intended as a cute panda for a children's product, the grumpy version sparked the creation of the now-famous Psycho Panda. It even inspired a legendary cocktail named after it, crafted with whiskey and coconut. As evening descends, Xunta transforma into a vibrant bar, hosting exclusive parties and featuring DJ sets with Jazzy Funky Afro Ethnic House music. Çelem's appreciation for Turkish wines is evident not only through the labels she designs but also in her contribution to the Thrace Vineyard Route map. This collaborative project between the Turkish Development Agency and the Ministry of Tourism brings together 12 boutique winemakers from Thrace, greatly enriching the region's tourism potential. The map serves as a delightful guide for wine enthusiasts, inviting them to explore the region's vineyards.

Aslı Şarman's ceramic studio, WOHHA, is a captivating place that lives up to its name. Serving as both a workshop and a showroom, visitors have the opportunity to witness the entire creative process. Şarman draws inspiration from life, nature, people, and interactions. Her handcrafted pottery, plates, cups, vases, and decorative ceramic objects designed for daily use showcase Wohha's distinct innovative style with black and white lines and the natural raw state of the material. Moreover, at Wohha, art seamlessly integrates into daily life, blurring the lines between art and functionality.

Founded by Selvin Gafuroğlu, GALERİ SELVİN is among the oldest art galleries in the neighborhood, boasting 17 years of hosting numerous artists in its two locations in Arnavutköy. I make sure to check out what’s on display every time I am in Arnavutköy.