THE STREETS OF SAN FRANCISCO
read in Turkish
For my generation, American sitcom series aired on the Turkish state channel, especially "San Francisco Streets," left a lasting impression on us about the American landscape, particularly the city of San Francisco in the 1980s. The fact that San Francisco, with its numerous hills, quickly resonated with me, just like Istanbul, which boasts 48 hills. I used to watch "The Streets of San Francisco" with my father, where the male characters would chase each other in cars, diving from one adventure to another in pursuit of evil. "Why don't they start the engine like you and wait?" I would ask him, struggling to grasp the concept of such fast-paced action. The portrayal of girls in "Full House," growing up under the care of their fathers and male nannies, was a departure from what we were used to. It made me wonder if such beautiful houses were everywhere in America.
I confess that despite these popular TV series from my childhood, my perception later in life might have continued with strong anti-American sentiment if San Francisco had not been the first American city I visited. Despite the warnings that "San Francisco is not a typical American city; it's not even America," my visit to SF revealed the "Other America," and a part of me grew to appreciate America and its landscape.
San Francisco, the birthplace of the innovative information technology that has shaped modern life, is as immortal as the 1968 "Summer of Love" celebrated with Scott McKenzie's song "San Francisco (Be Sure to Wear Flowers in Your Hair). I believe that the expression "home of the brave and land of the free" from the last verse of the American National Anthem takes on a tangible meaning, especially in the geography of California. This sense of freedom, relatively speaking, starts as a dreams and pours into the streets..
The Victorians of San Francisco
San Francisco, in my opinion, is undeniably the most enchanting city in the American landscape. Tony Bennett's iconic song "I Left My Heart in San Francisco," the heart-shaped sculptures scattered throughout the city, the iconic orange suspension bridge, the skyscrapers piercing through the fog, cable cars gliding up and down the hills like a roller coaster, and the nearby Pacific Ocean all contribute to this romantic allure. While some of the architectural heritage from the Victorian era, named after Queen Victoria, was lost due to the 1906 Earthquake and subsequent fire, the picturesque houses remain as iconic symbols of the city. Among these Victorian mansions, the most renowned are the Painted Ladies, gracefully situated in the charming Alamo Square, with some fetching prices of up to 3-5 million dollars.
The architectural style that largely preserves its authenticity, its stunning landmarks, and its unspoiled topography can make you forget that you are in a grid-planned American city. Skyscrapers- few in number- located in the city center were built in the architectural trends of the 1920s, such as Art Deco and Beaux Arts. Regrettably, we often fail to appreciate the beauty that a well-designed skyscraper can offer. The 48-story futuristic Transamerica Pyramid, which once proudly held the title of the city's tallest skyscraper until the construction of the Salesforce Tower in 2017, and the Sentinel Building, currently owned by director Francis Ford Coppola, stand as the two most iconic structures of the city; luckily, capturing them together in a single frame is quite possible!
Rainbow flag
The streets of San Francisco exude an inherent free spirit that transcends the need for evening parties. The free spirit finds expression through authenticity, a vibrant culture of creative protests, a strong civic consciousness, and an ethical understanding that embraces diversity in all its legal forms. This spirit of freedom draws inspiration from the counterculture movements of the 1960s, which challenged the conformist America of that era.
In the fight for gay rights, the most courageous and charismatic face of the struggle was Harvey Milk. With his unwavering political stance and magnetic charisma, he galvanized and politicized the masses, leading to significant achievements, including Milk's position in the Board of Supervisors. The Castro neighborhood, where Milk resided, became a stronghold of this struggle.
The flag, adorned with six vibrant colors of the rainbow and designed at Milk's request, continues to wave proudly in the skies of the neighborhood, defying the prevailing conservative mindset in the country.
Streets of homeless
Everything is not as rosy as it seems, of course. The housing problem, which no one can stop talking about, stands as one of the most pressing issues in the wealthiest state of the nation. The mortgage trap, local policies that incentivize tech companies to move to the city center, resulting gentrification and soaring real estate prices force some city residents to seek shelter in other towns and cities across the bay, while leaving the most vulnerable among them homeless on the streets. These individuals, their lives condensed into shopping carts, serve as the guardians of the city's streets day and night.
Public spaces
I witnessed the immense power of the streets and the collective spirit of resistance during the "No to the Iraq War" demonstrations in 2003. The protest, where only in SF 200,000 people marched with Maya Angelou's poems, would become one of the largest in American history. Protesting took the form of singing, dancing, and poetry readings at times. This awe-inspiring display of resistance fascinated me; San Franciscans didn't just take to the streets for parties, but finding an excuse to take to the streets was always effortless.
After settling in San Francisco, I noticed that everyone had a party closet in addition to their regular closet because there was never a week without festivals or celebrations in such a cosmopolitan city. Public spaces were always lively!
In public spaces, art is best summarized by the POPOS concept. POPOS stands for "privately owned public open spaces." This remarkable program mandates that large companies allocate a portion of their leased space for public use and invest in art as part of the zoning program. Particularly in the Financial District, these public spaces adorned with art installations offer employees and visitors a much-needed respite—an additional beauty that enriches the city.
A distinctive characteristic of San Francisco is its vibrant mural art, which flourishes abundantly in the Mission neighborhood, where Latin American communities reside. The mural tradition of the indigenous Olmec people continues, almost uninterrupted, in this land, serving as a testament to the enduring artistic heritage. The mural tradition was once a potent tool used by revolutionary artists like Diego Rivera and his contemporaries to construct the national identity in post-revolutionary Mexico. The murals that Rivera gifted to the city during his visits with Kahlo in the 1930s continue to inspire the local art community. Exploring and photographing these murals, adorned with powerful political and social messages in the Clarion and Balmy alleys, is a must!
Tony Bennett famously compares San Francisco to Rome, Paris, and Manhattan in his iconic song "I Left My Heart in San Francisco," but none of these renowned cities truly capture his heart; after all, his beloved city awaits him in San Francisco. A statue, erected in front of the Fairmont Hotel where he first performed the song, stands as a tribute to his legacy, and will continue to honor him after his passing.