IN PURSUIT OF BASQUE CUISINE
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When we set out to explore Northern Spain on a road trip, it was winter. The adrenaline of buying a one-way ticket hit me hard, even though it was not my first time in Spain. As the journey went on and on, it took us from welcoming feast tables to quiet, small towns, and finally to the pilgrimage route. The consecutive religious holidays, the festive air, and the winter climate that deterred mass tourism gave us an unexpected experience and a sense of hospitality. Traveling to Spain in the off-season rewarded us well in the end.
While traveling within the borders of Europe, one can sense that the term "European Union" embodies not only commonality but also the intention of coexisting with differences. Spain, in itself, is truly a mosaic. Although the end of the separatist Basque organization ETA in 2017 was a positive development, the risk of Catalonia, the country's wealthiest region, seceding from Spain, has left everyone on edge, although many are simply weary of it. In almost every region of Spain, this strong sense of identity is accompanied by an authentic and deep-rooted cuisine.
Despite having a coastline on the Atlantic Ocean, the Spaniards have managed to preserve their affinity for a cuisine shaped by the Mediterranean climate and way of life. Now, when I close my eyes, I can hear the waves of the Atlantic Ocean fiercely hitting the cliffs of Galicia; and on my palate, the lingering taste of Basque cuisine remains.
Euskal Herria: The Basque Country
Nestled between the Bay of Biscay and the Cantabrian Sea, with the lush green forests of the Cantabrian Mountains at its back, lies the captivating Basque region. The Basques refer to their homeland as "Euskal Herria,” even though part of this region lies within the borders of France. Despite the presence of heavy industry, the region has managed to preserve its breathtaking natural beauty. The Ebro Valley and its meandering river are carefully preserved within numerous natural parks. The Alavese part of the Rioja region, synonymous with wine, lies within the Basque borders. While going southward through the vineyards, you are embraced by the ash-colored mountain ranges. Additionally, the coastal route of the Santiago Way, which inspired Paulo Coelho’s novel "The Pilgrimage," passes through the Basque region, serving as one of the oldest pilgrimage routes in the ancient world. The spirituality of countless pilgrims is woven into the very fabric of this mesmerizing geography.
The secrets of Basque Cuisine
To say that the essence of Basque cuisine lies solely in its bountiful soil, which flavors its wine, its abundant seas offering a rich variety of seafood, and its fertile lands yielding fresh, seasonal produce, would still leave something unsaid. It's not merely about abundance; it's about the deep-rooted appreciation for this culinary wealth, preserving age-old wisdom passed down through generations. A great deal of credit goes to the innovative, inquisitive nature of the Basque people, their readiness to embrace modern influences when needed. Basques have the choice to adhere to their time-honored recipes or blaze a trail as pioneers of the new Basque cuisine, but one thing is certain when it comes to food - the prideful glow on everyone's faces is unmistakable! Dining out offers options for every budget, while at home, the feasts seem to have no end, embodying the heartwarming spirit of hospitality.
Txoko: Gastronomic societies
The success of Basque cuisine is rooted in the treasured recipes passed down by grandmothers and mothers, as well as the collaboration of Basque men. The "txokos," numbering around a thousand, have their origins in rural life. A century ago, men who migrated to the cities sought to preserve their solidarity and traditions in the urban setting through these gastronomic societies, which now stand as the backbone of Basque culinary heritage. Men who couldn't find a place in their wives' domain—the kitchen—came together in these societies to cook collectively in a brotherly spirit.
Once exclusive for men, these secret associations have now relaxed their strict rules, but women are still guests rather than cooks in the kitchen. Rumor has it that even Queen Maria Christina was handed her plate and sent away to the palace once upon a time. Despite gender discrimination, a strong sense of camaraderie prevails among men. Some of them, even after becoming famous chefs, still continue to cook and dine with their male friends. Today, these societies, with membership fees reaching up to 1200 euros, are anything but outdated associations. Their openness to innovation, change, and experimentation, while respecting tradition without being bound by it, has paved the way for Michelin-starred restaurants and the fine dining culture in Basque cuisine.
Nueva Cocina Vasca: A revolution in Basque Cuisine
We find ourselves in the 1970s, a time when the Franco regime ended, and freedom swept through the country. Meanwhile, in France it was the era of "Nouvelle Cuisine," when French chef Paul Bocuse revolutionized French cuisine with radical changes. Bocuse, along with Basque chefs Juan Mari Arzak and Pedro Subijara, gathered around a round table in Madrid and began to reimagine traditional recipes by lightening heavy, sauced, and overcooked dishes with new ingredients and methods. The radical reinterpretation from French to Basque cuisine undoubtedly sparked a revolution in Basque gastronomy. The bold steps of that era catapulted Juan Mari Arzak's Arzak restaurant and Pedro Subijara's Akelarre restaurant to the ranks of the world's best restaurants. Of course, numerous Michelin stars crowned these achievements.
Michelin stars ve fine dining
Now, how did the Paris-based tire company Michelin get involved in gastronomy? In the early 1900s, the Michelin Guide was published to make road travel more appealing and encourage drivers to hit the road. This guide featured reviews of hotels and restaurants. Over time, it became an authority in the world of fine dining. Michelin stars became a key criterion for prestige for chefs, fame for restaurants, and profit for business owners in the gastro-tourism sector. Justifiably, the proud Basque cuisine, which is both deep-rooted and open to innovation, can't help but boast about its Michelin stars per square meter.
Among the young Basque chefs racing to elevate their cuisine to the ranks of the world's finest flavors is Elena Arzak, the daughter of the pioneer of Basque cuisine, Juan Mari Arzak. Arzak, a 3-Michelin-starred restaurant that has been serving in the same building since 1897, is led by Elena Arzak, who not only carries numerous achievements but also holds the title of the world's best female chef.
Another important figure experimenting with Basque cuisine as a scientific discipline is Andoni Luis Aduriz. Trained under Pedro Subijara, Aduriz has maintained his place among the world's top 11 chefs for eleven years. His restaurant Mugaritz, located in the Basque countryside, takes pride in being the 9th best restaurant in the world with its two Michelin stars. Thanks to his collaborative efforts with Granada University, Aduriz is closely aligned with science, to the extent that they only cook and serve duck foie gras, a dish that requires exceptionally genetically superior ducks.
On egin: Bon appétit!
Established in 2011 at Miramon Technology Park, the Basque Culinary Institute is one of only two universities in Europe offering a degree in gastronomy. Affiliated with Mondragon University, the Faculty of Gastronomic Sciences aims to foster a research-oriented environment while promoting the exchange of knowledge between haute cuisine professionals and the industry. Thanks to the courses and lessons taught by Aduriz and other Basque chefs, Basque cuisine continues to forge ahead in experimental ways. For instance, their focus goes beyond creating a visually captivating experience; they also conduct experiments to measure participants' brain activity while eating, aiming to evoke responses from their other senses. The key word is innovation.
If you have time…
The city of Bilbao, known for its rejuvenated industrial areas, captivates visitors with iconic landmarks such as Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum, Philippe Starck's Alhondiga cultural and arts complex, which was transformed from an old wine cellar, Louise Bourgeois' colossal spider sculpture, and Jeff Koons' charming puppy sculpture. Other alluring attractions include the Fashion Museum dedicated to haute couture designer Balenciaga, the historic town of Guernica immortalized by Picasso's masterpiece "Guernica," depicting the horrors of World War II, the renowned truffle chocolates of Vitoria Gasteiz, and San Sebastian, boasting romantic Belle Époque architectural heritage and hosting International Film, Jazz, and Gourmet festivals. The Basque region is truly exceptional in every sense, so it's best not to attempt to experience everything in one go! Rest assured, you will undoubtedly find yourself returning to this enchanting place!
• What to eat?
When exploring the culinary delights of the Basque region, make sure to savor these mouthwatering dishes and treats:
Squid cooked in its ink
Bacalao (Codfish)
Pastel Vasco: Almond and orange cream dessert
Cordera: Milk lamb
Green peppers from the Guernica and Ibarra regions
Rock mussels
Marmatiko: Fish stew
Idiazabal cheese: A smoked, raw sheep's milk cheese that pairs perfectly with local txakoli wine
Pintxo (Tapas): Enjoy an assortment of snacks like squid, mussels, mushrooms, codfish, omelets, peppers, and spicy sausages.
San Sebastian cheesecake
• What to drink?
Wine: With half of the European Union's vineyards located in Spain, you can't miss the wines from the La Rioja Alavesa region. Nestled near the Atlantic Ocean and on the high slopes of the Cantabrian Mountains, the area's limestone and clay-rich soil, along with the moderate acidity of high-altitude grapes, produce wines with rich aromas.
Txakoli: This fruity white wine has seen an increase in quality with the improvement of local grapes and pairs wonderfully with pintxos.
Carajillo: A delightful concoction made by heating whiskey, brandy, or cognac and mixing it with coffee.
Cafe con leche: The classic latte coffee for a comforting and smooth experience.
Cider: Experience the traditional apple wine that has been crafted for centuries, offering a unique and refreshing taste.
• Where to go?
Bodegas: Explore the unique wines of the region in the wine cellars known as "bodegas." Marvel at avant-garde architectural wonders like the Hotel Marquez de Riscal designed by Frank Gehry or the Bodega Ysios designed by renowned Spanish architect Calatrava, beautifully complementing the Cantabrian Mountains.
Tapas bars (Pintxos bars): Embrace haute cuisine, as it's as common as haute couture in the Basque region. Look for pintxos, the local equivalent of tapas, meaning "food attached to a toothpick." Expert chefs turn these delectable bites into visual spectacles atop thin slices of baguettes, held together by toothpicks, transforming them into works of modern art. Priced between 1 and 3 euros, these toothpick-adorned delights are calculated based on the number on your plate.
Pintxo-Pote nights: Experience the Basque version of happy hour called pintxo-pote, where you can indulge in tapas and drinks. Usually occurring on Thursdays, some establishments offer one glass of wine and one pintxo for a fixed price of around 1-2 euros. Maps available beforehand help you locate participating places across the city. The participation of students adds liveliness to Thursday evenings, as it perfectly suits their budgets.
Markets and gourmet shops: In the mornings, stroll through markets like Bretxia and San Martin in San Sebastian, Ribeca in Bilbao, and the famous Tolosa market known for its black beans. Shopping alongside famous chefs, you'll realize that the backbone of Basque cuisine lies in fresh, local, and seasonal products found in these open and closed markets. Products like free-range chicken, pasteurized milk, milk lamb, tomatoes, and peppers guarantee Basque quality. Gourmet shops also offer a wide range of organic and fresh products.
Gourmet tours: Engage in classic gourmet tours that include pintxos and wine tastings, and perhaps even cider tastings. While Michelin-starred chef workshops may not be as common, if you find one, don't miss it! You might find the opportunity to follow the step-by-step production process of the famous Idiazabal cheese at a cheese factory.
Enjoy your culinary journey through the Basque region!
*Hillsider Magazine # 91, Summer 2018