OAXACA: MEXICO’S TREASURE

Exploring Oaxaca’s Art & Cultural Scene

Oaxaca's abundant cultural wealth and favorable geographical position have transformed the region and city into a vibrant center of attraction. Its residents, both locals and foreigners, invigorate the art and culture scene, creating a distinctive aesthetic language. Yet, the presence of museums dedicated to pre-Columbian civilizations or the prominent display of traditional arts cannot confine Oaxaca to the past. From prints to photography, a vibrant contemporary and visual arts movement is thriving. Walking through Oaxaca on a Thursday evening, hopping from one art exhibition opening to another amidst the bustling crowds, you might easily mistake yourself for being in New York's Chelsea!

Textile Museum

It is unimaginable for Oaxaca, a region with a centuries-old weaving culture and a significant majority of indigenous tribes, not to have a Textile Museum! Established in 2006 through the generous donation of five thousand artifacts, which make up six major collections, this small yet well-curated museum is housed in an 18th-century colonial mansion. Its primary mission is to preserve the skilled craftsmanship and unique techniques passed down from generation to generation among the Zapotec people, placing a priority on safeguarding Oaxaca, Mexico, and Central American weaving heritage. In addition to its local focus, the museum also plays host to textile exhibitions from around the world.

Manuel Álvarez Bravo Photography Center

Manuel Álvarez Bravo, a contemporary of Diego Rivera, is a renowned photographer whose iconic images you may recognize, even if you are not familiar with his name. During the post-Mexican Revolution era, Mexico became an important hub of avant-garde art. Despite his close association with surrealist circles in France, Bravo chose to return to his roots in Mexico, capturing the enchanting landscapes and indigenous people who epitomize the country's cultural heritage. The Photography Center, bearing his name, was established in 1996 by the artist Francisco Toledo and has since been showcasing photography exhibitions by Mexican photographers.

MACO Oaxaca Contemporary Art Museum

Oaxaca's vibrant art scene owes a great deal to the dedication and creativity of Mexican artist Francis Toledo. In the 1950s, there were no museums or art galleries, but through Toledo's visionary efforts, a state-private sector partnership was formed, laying the foundation for highly effective cultural institutions. As a result, Oaxaca emerged as a trailblazing state, shaping the country's contemporary art tradition. Following this successful model, MACO has grown into a renowned cultural institution, significantly enhancing the recognition and exposure of Oaxacan artists.

Oaxaca Institute of Graphic Arts

Founded in 1988 under Toledo's leadership, the Institute functions as a venue for showcasing the remarkable graphic works of talented artists.

Oaxaca Ethno-Botanic Garden

I am left with a strong obsession for cactus from Oaxaca. Even though I had nopal, the cactus sauté, in every taco I ordered, I couldn't get fully saturated. You may also fall in love with cactus in a similar way, so don't miss the Ethno-botanic Garden, a magnificent oasis spreading over twenty-three thousand square meters in the heart of the city! Thanks to Toledo's efforts, this haven narrowly escaped being turned into a luxury hotel or parking lot, now reflecting the richness of the region's flora.

Benito Juarez Museum House

While it may not have all the original furniture, this house, where Benito Juarez, an important figure in the Mexico-America War and the country's first indigenous president, grew up as an adopted son, aims to preserve the memory of this significant figure of Mexican history within a period atmosphere.

Philately Museum

While stamps may not be your main interest, the Philately Museum's charming setting, with cacti scattered across its pristine white courtyards, makes it one of Oaxaca's most delightful spots. The museum features letters sent from Istanbul, stamps from Turkey, postcards penned by Frida Kahlo to her doctor, stamps capturing Mexican culture and history, as well as vintage mailboxes. Along with captivating artwork that could be considered stamp art, this museum offers a diverse array of exhibits from its extensive collection.

Rufino Tamayo Pre-Columbian Mexican Art Museum

A contemporary of Diego Rivera and one of Oaxaca's most famous artists, Tamayo, displays his collection of pre-Columbian civilization artifacts, collected during his journeys around Mexico, in a colonial mansion converted into a museum.

Oaxaca Cultures Museum

Situated adjacent to the baroque splendor of the Santo Domingo church, the monastery, restored successfully in 1996, now houses the Oaxaca Cultures Museum. Upon entering through the same doors that once welcomed pilgrims, this sanctuary, with its arcaded courtyard, bridges the gap between pre-Columbian and post-Columbian historical life in every aspect. The most dazzling section showcases the treasures of the pre-Columbian Zapotec city of Monte Alban, which had somehow eluded the attention of the Spaniards.

Shopping: What to buy?

No matter what you associate with Frida Kahlo - vibrant colors, embroidered huipil blouses, knitted shawls, flowing long skirts, huarache leather sandals - all are distinctly Mexican, representing traditional designs that have stood the test of time. Almost all of the 180 pieces in Kahlo's wardrobe were crafted from local textiles from the Oaxaca region. Thanks to her, ala Mexico has become an integral part of our popular culture. And the ala Mexico winds continue to blow: Yalitza Aparicio, the star of the Oscar-winning film Roma and a native of Oaxaca, graced the cover of Vogue Mexico in December 2018, becoming the first indigenous woman to do so. The lace dress she posed in was a Dior design inspired by the traditional attire of female rodeo riders, escaramuzas. Shopping is definitely not a sin in Mexico!

What to buy? You absolutely must get your hands on Serape blankets, woven in rainbow colors unique to the Saltillo region, and Zapotec motif-adorned rugs and kilims (tapetes) made from high-quality sheep's wool using natural dyes from the Teotitlan region. Another favorite is the black ceramics (barro negro) crafted in the town of San Bartolo Coyotepec using region-specific techniques. All the mentioned items are readily available in the shops and markets in downtown Oaxaca. Mercado de Artesanias (Artisans Market), Guibani Artesanal, Andares del Arte Popular, Mujeres Artisans (Women's Cooperative), Casa de las Artesanías are just a few of the large stores and bazaars worth exploring. And if you wish to witness craftsmen at work, capture captivating photos, and have more options, consider making day trips to the aforementioned towns.

Oaxaca Cultures Museum

Almost all of the 180 pieces in Kahlo's wardrobe were crafted from local textiles from the Oaxaca region. Thanks to her, ala Mexico has become an integral part of our popular culture. And the ala Mexico winds continue to blow: Yalitza Aparicio, the star of the Oscar-winning film Roma and a native of Oaxaca, graced the cover of Vogue Mexico in December 2018, becoming the first indigenous woman to do so. The lace dress she posed in was a Dior design inspired by the traditional attire of female rodeo riders, escaramuzas. Shopping is definitely not a sin in Mexico!

What to buy? You absolutely must get your hands on Serape blankets, woven in rainbow colors unique to the Saltillo region, and Zapotec motif-adorned rugs and kilims (tapetes) made from high-quality sheep's wool using natural dyes from the Teotitlan region. Another favorite is the black ceramics (barro negro) crafted in the town of San Bartolo Coyotepec using region-specific techniques. All the mentioned items are readily available in the shops and markets in downtown Oaxaca. Mercado de Artesanias (Artisans Market), Guibani Artesanal, Andares del Arte Popular, Mujeres Artisans (Women's Cooperative), Casa de las Artesanías are just a few of the large stores and bazaars worth exploring. And if you wish to witness craftsmen at work, capture captivating photos, and have more options, consider making day trips to the aforementioned towns.

Traditions and design culture

Acapulco Chairs

These legendary chairs, said to be inspired by famous Maya hammocks, were designed by a Frenchman who visited Acapulco, the favorite haunt of the jet set in the 1950s. Whether they are in a lounge or not, they bring a tropical breeze to any space where they are placed. Designed by weaving ropes on a metal structure, one relaxes just by looking at them.

Alebrijes

One of the most common souvenirs you will encounter are Alebrijes toys, made from paper mache or wood, originating from Oaxaca. According to legend, a local artist named Pedro Linares created these semi- mythical creatures inspired by hallucinations he saw during a high fever. The town of San Martin Tilcajete still keeps this decorative folk art alive.

Calenda

The name given to Oaxaca's street parties. Calendas feature giant festival puppets dancing on acrobat stilts, women dancing in traditional costumes while carrying flower and fruit baskets on their heads, lively bands, and fireworks, inviting the crowds to join the dance in a visual and auditory feast!

Guelaguetza

Celebrated in honor of the corn goddess Centeotl, with the hope of having a fruitful harvest season, the Guelaguetza ceremonies, which mean "mutual exchange of gifts" in the Zapotec language, transform into a festival dedicated to the Virgin Mary as a result of Spanish influence, adopting certain aspects of the Catholic faith. In Oaxaca, the region which hosts the largest indigenous population in the country, these ceremonies serve as a source of pride for the locals who dance in traditional attire, attempting to preserve their cultural identities.

Mural Tradition

Mexican mural art, which gained visibility thanks to Diego Rivera in the 20th century, actually goes back to the ancient Olmec civilization. Yes, I'm talking about the civilization that gave its name to a tequila brand. The Spanish continued this tradition, using it as a tool to spread Catholicism. After the Mexican Revolution, the mural tradition took on an entirely different role in the newly established Mexico: strengthening the new regime and patriotism, reinforcing the roots and national identity, thanks to famous painters such as Rivera and Orozco. You cannot miss colorful murals; they are everywhere!

Calavera and Day of the Dead Festival

The dried skulls adorned with orange velvet flowers at the altars and cemeteries are based on a ceremony honoring the Aztec tradition's underworld goddess Mitcal. Its European equivalent is the Danse Macabre, a dance image symbolizing the inevitability of death, with skeletons leading the deceased to their graves. When these two traditions come together, the world's most entertaining and meaningful festival emerges: Día de Muertos, the Day of the Dead Festival. Celebrated in November, this holiday aims to commemorate our lost loved ones while celebrating life.

Mojigangas ve Oaxaca Weddings

I have never seen such lively and spirited weddings! Jovial and rhythmic bands, giant wedding puppets dancing on their stilts, women dancing in traditional costumes with flower and fruit baskets on their heads... The streets are closed to traffic for the wedding, and for hours, you can see a large group dancing behind the newlyweds. If possible, get married in Oaxaca! If you are already married, why not renew your vows?

Bonus

Magical Towns (Pueblos Magicos)

In 2001, the Mexican Ministry of Tourism launched the "Magical Towns" program to promote the country's natural beauty, hospitality, and cultural richness by showcasing lesser-known small towns. Through this program, towns that meet various criteria receive support from the government in terms of both promotion and financial assistance. Oaxaca has five towns listed in the program, with the hippie haven of Mazunte being one of the most charming among them.

Sea, Sun and Hammock

While the Pacific Ocean beaches boast breathtakingly large waves, some beaches are even marked with crocodile icons on the map! However, hammocks, inspired by the legacy of the Maya, offer a safer and more enjoyable way to relax and watch the ocean. Along the Pacific Ocean coast, there are several resort towns in Oaxaca, including Mazunte, San Agustinillo, Zipolite, and Puerto Escondido, which are less crowded tourist destinations. Zipolite, with its bohemian vibe, is particularly noteworthy, still attracting old hippies and new bohemian spirits to enjoy the sun, ocean, and sand on its nudist beach. To top it off, the Nudist Festival welcomes people of all ages from around the world to enjoy the beach in their birthday suits every year.

Oaxaca Cuisine

In 2010, Oaxaca's cuisine was recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO. The region's diverse microclimates and multicultural population have given rise to the country's most unique cuisine. Among their culinary gems, mole sauce stands out, made traditionally from 90 different spices, including chocolate. Oaxaca is also renowned for its coffee, chocolate, and corn. To the extent that corn and cocoa come together in the tejate drink, the beverage of the gods. Another snack that is easy to resist is protein-rich fried grasshoppers. Are you up for trying them?

Temezcal

The steam bath tradition inherited from the Mayans aims to purify the soul, mind, and body from all kinds of physical and mental toxins. This spiritual ceremony takes place in a dome-shaped steam chamber resembling the womb of the world and is led by a shaman. Accompanied by incense and drum rhythms, the ceremony strengthens our spiritual connection with the planet and the universe.

* Hillsider Magazine # 93, Summer 2018